Signature Clothes Pin Napkin Holder 1
Signature Clothes Pin Napkin Holder
Image by Sifu Renka
Reservation policy: booking for date exactly 2 months to the date prior to the event
Server: Zion (and other wait staff – the graceful nature and attention to service, although once missed a semi-empty water glass, and crumb sweeping left until just prior to cheese course)
Chef Keller – in Paris, news of Michelin 3 star status of Per Se (NYC) announce days prior to dining
Dinner for 6: 4 Chef’s Tastings (1 with modifications, without cocoa and minimal dairy); 2 Seasonal Set Menus
Chef’s Tasting Menu:
Amuse Bouche:
Cream puff shell enclosing butter and compte cheese – light airy choux pastry with a very rich melted buttery center (almost like just spread on butter) and small scattering of light gruyere flavouring. Puff was not too rich, delicious, delicate and tastey.
Signature smoked salmon coronet – minced smoked salmon (not salty) in a crisp tuile like cone that had both sesame and chives scattered in its crispy case. In dairy inclusive versions, crème fraiche was also found in the interior of the cone.
“Oysters and Pearls”: “Sabayon” of Pearl Tapioca with Beau Soleil Oysters and Russian Sevruga Caviar – dining companions raved over the lusciousness of the miniature oysters in the beautiful sabayon sauce, however complained that the dish could have been improved if there was “just one more oyster” due to the fact that there was “too much caviar” (!) or that the caviar was “too much/salty.” One member, indicating that this is the first time he’s had caviar, found the texture soft, and a little rich. The tapioca pearls found scattered amongst the sea of oysters were “amazing” and added to the character of this dish.
REPLACEMENT: Russian Sevruga Caviar on Bed of Green Apple Granite (with scattered cubed ice chunks): although not as seductive as the signature “oysters and pearls”, the clean flavours of the granite helped cut the salty and slightly soft nature of the generous quenelle of caviar. The chunks of tasteless ice wasn’t too much of a thrill, but were probably a play on the tapioca pearls that could not be added to the dish by the very accommodating kitchen.
(Seasonal Menu): Canadian Bluefin Tuna “Carpaccio”, English Cucumbers, Barrel Aged Tamari “Gelee”, Red Radish “Gastrique” and Young Cilantro – members that received this dish noted that the tuna was “very fishy” and that they weren’t impressed.
Selection of breads from Bouchon Bakery (mini-epi, batard, and mini-ciabatta) served with FL house salted Orwell, Vermont “Animal Farm” Butter, and a Californian Whole Cream Sweet Butter – airy crisp ciabatta containing an airy center and wholesome crust, was a toothsome offering making a decent pair with the sweet butter. However, the mini-epi paired well with the stellar house salted butter, seducing the mouth with its pure, clean flavours and silky smooth finish.
Salad of French Laundry Garden Heirloom Beets, “Yai Li” Pears, Mizuna Greens, Red Radish “Confit” and Radish “Vinaigrette” – baby pickled beets received mixed reviews, with one finding the tart starter a good set up for dishes to come by opening the appetite, and others noting that the “dish was bad; [that] the flavours don’t mix” or that the beets were “too sour” or “too soft”. This was the start of the parade of pears found in my particular set of courses, while somewhat refreshing, the sweetness was a little strong when matched with the equally strong picked root vegetables. Although the dish was rather small, there seemed to be too much sweet and sour on the plate and was not overtly popular. I wouldn’t go as far as to say that the dish was terrible, but I understood the reasoning behind the kitchen’s offer of these considerably light cleansers before the series of richer entrees whose parade was about to begin.
OR
Poached Moulard Duck “Foie Gras en Torchon”, “Compressed” Fuyu Persimmons, Hachiya Persimmon “Jus”, “Gelee de Lillet Blanc” and Hazelnut “Nougatine” ( supplement) – a delicate round of airy foie terrine was presented over a glistening light yellow bed of white lily gelee, the latter a favourite amongst tasters, one of which proclaiming “that I would buy a jar of the jam if I could!” Dotting the sparkling pillows were cubed golden persimmons, adding a beautiful warm glow to the lush comfort found on this plate. Baby sprouts top the terrine along with a small scattering of hazelnut crumble. When all items were combined on freshly torch-toasted thick brioche slices (from Bouchon Bakery), the light and clean smearings of luxury melted right into their rich buttery surrounds, creating heaven in the mouth.
(Seasonal Menu) “Choufleur a la Polonaise”: Cauliflower “Agnolotti”, Meyer Lemon-Sweet Garlic “Glaçage” and Niçoise Olive “Crumbs” – one of the most memorable dishes of the evening, where there was unanimous proclamations ranging from “I never knew cauliflower could taste like this; if all cauliflower were like this I would eat it everyday” to awe-struck silence. Pillowy cushions of thin wrapped agnolotti, had rich interiors of cauliflower (wow!) and a slight tinge of cheese flavour. The sauce that touched the pasta nuggets was light, yet seductively fully of body and flavour. The “crumb” topping, a brilliant, and almost, invisible texture contrast. A definite star of the evening.
Sauteed Fillet of Gulf Coast Cobia, Belgian Endive “Marmelade”, Ruby Red Grapefruit “Supremes” and Sweet Pea Shoot “Coulis” – sweet pea shoot puree was an elegant colour addition to an otherwise neutral toned dish, burst with fresh flavours from an early morning harvest and danced on the palate as if it teasing the mind to recall freshly stir-fried Asian greens. Surprisingly, caramelized endives were creamy and sweet, adding depth to the simple pureness of sweet ruby red sections. Cobia, reminiscent of pan fried frozen sea bass found in most Chinese restaurants, was not fully appreciated, causing some diners to question the “freshness” of the believed to be stellar ingredients sourced by the kitchen.
“Macaroni and Cheese”: Maine Lobster Tail “Pochee Sous Vide” with Mascarpone-Enriched Orzo Pasta and Creamy Lobster Broth – Much anticipated mac and cheese met prejudiced palates who were “surprised to see something [they] were not expecting”. However, the poached meaty lobster tail was noted to be “lacking in flavour”, and the orzo bed, “too rich”.
REPLACEMENT: Fresh Steamed Lobster Tail, Grilled King Mushroom, Caramelized Leeks and Pearl Onions – a light shellfish dish, satisfying the desire for umami flavours finds a generous coil of lobster tail that springs to life between each bite, lightly glistened with an addictively refreshing and sweet honey reduction. Almost like candy, but not overwhelming the other flavours found in the dish. Grilled king mushrooms, dense and meaty, fall prey to incisors too eager to make them memories. Ironically, this variation of the shellfish creation left a fully satisfied and light feeling, allowing this diner to eagerly anticipate more to come.
(Seasonal Menu): Sauteed Medalion of Atlantic Monkfish, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, “Musquee de Provence” Pumpkin “Cuit Sous Vided”, Creamed Arrowleaf Spinach and Madras Curry Emulsion – a mediocre flavoured filet of monkfish found refuge amongst delicate black trumpets, a spring of life against a blank canvas. A brief kiss with the curry sauce sent the mind to the aromatic but rich curry dishes of India, without the weightiness associated with traditional fare. Creamed Spinach drew wows of appreciation, while the sous vide pumpkin, smiled flippantly while its crescent self found its glorious end against spear and sword.
“Rouelle” of Four Story Hills Farm Guinea Hen, Perigord Truffles, and “Foie Gras” with Swiss Chard, Cranberry Relish and “Sauce Perigourdine” – supple and moist roulade of guinea hen, had many raving, questioning where the aforementioned foie was. When revealed that the roulade surrounded the foie before cooking, oohs and ahhs were sighed noting the smoky flavours found in the poultry must be from the melted foie that was absorbed by its surroundings. A delicious sautéed bed of chard reminded diners of comfort braised Shanghainese greens, imparting a balance of both rich and smoky flavours to an otherwise fibrous green. Thick, fruity cranberry jelly provided a sweet addition to a well portioned dish of intense smoke flavours, while the slight jus accompanying the entrée was hungrily mopped off with each bite.
Herb Roasted Ribeye of Snake River Farm Prime Beef with a “Hash” of Corned Beef Tongue, Yukon Gold Potato, Sweet Peppers, Fennel Bulbs and “Mousseline Dijonaise” – lux finely marbled (can taste the melted fat in the beef) strips of supple ribeye steak dressed with a few crystals of fleur de sel, gave a delicate crunch and fishing flavour cutting some of the fattiness of the tender clean tasting beef. Not complaining, the corned beef flavour from the few dots of cubed tongue contributed too much to the remainder of the dish. Gloriously sautéed diced vegetables were perfectly cooked and oh so tasty. Strong flavoured mustard cream sauce was a tad on the strong side, although a small paint on the plate made the overall dish too heavy. However, alone, the beef and diced hash and vegetable beds were scrumptious.
(Seasonal Menu): Marcho Farm Nature-Fed Veal “Servi en Trois Façons”, Caramelized Brussels Sprouts, Red Onion “Marmelade”, Sweet Butter Poached “La Ratte” Potatoes and Sage- Infused “Jus” – slightly overcooked and tough veal tenderloin, was outshone by well done sweetbreads, and slightly undercooked strip of veal brisket. Brussel Sprouts and the barely falling apart brisket were announced the true stars of this dish.
Selection of Breads: Walnut bread; current bread
“Saint Nectarine”: Wildflower Honey Glazed Black Twig Apples, Pickled Pearl Onion “Petals”, Grilled Melba Toast and Caramelized Onion “Gastrique” – a thin tile of toast aided in the lifting of all elements of this cheese course to a welcoming mouth. Not too rich, yet slightly creamy, clean, and silky, light, and not pungent, this usual non-cheese lover, found the flavours captivating, the textures of smooth and warm, chilled and light against a think crackle, intoxicating. The deliciousness of the overall combined dish was an eye-opener as the small medallion of poached apple were sickeningly sweet, whereas the picked onion petals were divine; together with the understated cheese, calls to attention your senses and soul much like a surprise attack in the dark.
(Seasonal Menu): “Cashel Blue”: Concord Grape Jelly, Candied English Walnuts, Watercress Leaves and Walnut “Sable” – this blue cheese course was outstanding to those who consumed this dish who swore the unattractiveness of the blue cheese alone, made a caterpillar to butterfly change when paired with the current bread, and sweet peeled pearls of concord grapes.
Oregon Wild Huckleberry Sorbet, Sweet Semolina Cake and “Compote” of Oregon Huckleberries – a perfect quenelle of rich sorbet, atop a sweet pool of huckleberries preserves. Bland sweet semolina cake lent a delicious and delicate pound cake-like sponge (without the heaviness of butter) when paired with a smattering of sorbet.
(Seasonal Menu): Golden Maui Pineapple Sorbet, Persian Lime Sponge Cake, “Compressed” Pineapple and Passionfruit Reduction
Valrhona Chocolate “Financier”, “Gianduja” Custard, Spiced Caramel Ice Cream, Spanish Peanut Crunch and Cocoa Nib “Coulis” – a glamorized Reese’s cup? Delicious and decadent
REPLACEMENT:
(Tasting of Vegetables) Hosui Pear “Pochee au Vin Doux”, “Frangipane”, (Valrhona Chocoalte Pudding) and Red Wine-Bartlett Pear Sorbet – sweet and almost too much pear. However the beautiful rosettes of thin sugar poached asian pear sat atop equally sweet, but crisp medallions of pear. Juxtaposing this sweet dish was the delicious red wine-bartlette pear sorbet, reminiscent of a creamy gelato! What, this isn’t gelato? Wow. Pureed pear props up the glorious sorbet upholding the star of this course.
(Seasonal Menu): “Creamsicle”: Orange-Scented Ice Cream, Almond “Streusel”, Mascarpone Cream and Chocolate Liquid “Crunch” – the dramatic presentation is worthy to note. Otherwise neutral tones of ice cream and sundae toppings are blanketed with a rich dressing of chocolate that hardens shortly after contact with the cold surface of the dairy. The crackle that gives way with the first plunge of a spoon into it’s glossy surface meets sighs of delight.
“Mignardises”
-Almond butter macarons – smooth, raised and moist domes of crisp ground almond meringue shells, were perfectly formed thin shells surrounded a moist, loose crumbed interior that sandwiched a suggestive almond butter filling. Neither rich nor too sweet, a heavenly concoction from the pastry chef.
-Shortbread – light, loose and mildly buttery… a sugar cookie that didn’t really draw attention to itself.
-Light lime custard open faced petit-four – amazing dome of light lime mousse perched on a very thin sable cookie. The airiness of the custard dissolved on impact in the mouth, while leaving a lasting impression of heaven. Delicious!
Service
Impeccable – I now understand the meaning of being at a Michelin Three Star establishment (although it was the daughter restaurant Per Se in NYC that was just granted that status days prior to my dining experience). No doubt, TFL would score equal if not higher (although there is no such thing) being the tried, true and originator of Keller’s brain children. The staff present was in control of the whole evening’s events from the moment we walked in at 6:30pm until we left nearing mid-night. Attentive to our needs (in particular, my food allergies), our table of six was taken care of by a team at nearly a 1:1 ratio. Before each new plate, our flatware was delivered to best accompany the next dish to follow. Orchestrated as if performing at a ballet, each server was swift, quiet in graceful in delivery. Most impressive, as we were seated at a table on the upper floor of the establishment, was how each server glided up the stairs with their respective dishes, and how, with one gentle swoop, we were all served at once. Very soothing descriptions of our dishes followed these repeated dances, never intruding on any conversation that the table may have been deeply discussing. Mind you, this was probably a 4-4.5 hour affair. With three of the members in our party were taking pictures as each course arrived, there were no interruptions in service as we were even presented with the whole perfectly plated shared product to capture digitally before being disassembled or set in front of others. Although each server had a differing task, Zion Curiel, the member who started our evening and ensured that things were flowing smoothly throughout, was particularly dear to my heart. This may have been due to the fact that in reviewing one of the images I took during the dessert course, and seemingly to recognize it as being similar dishware that a friend owned (and hence wanting to take some evidence back for comparison – TFL does use its own line of dishware, but incidentally this plate was exactly the same as my friend’s and can be purchased at Caban), Zion, returning to our table exclaimed gently “Oh, I’ve never seen that before.” Embarrassed by how extreme I must have seemed, I tried to play it off as a normal occurrence and said nothing in defense. However, shortly after, he once again approached our table and asked specifically, “Would you like to have a tour of our kitchen? You can see all our dishes there.” Not wanting to refuse the kitchen tour, I replied with much enthusiasm (perhaps garnering the jealousy of others around that may have wished that they too were mistaken to have taken some strange obsession with china) and was soon whisked away (yes the rest of my table also got to join) to a bright and spotless, well run kitchen. As I took images of the chefs at work that night (unfortunately Mr. Keller was still in Paris)… and admired the dishware (I know, I had to keep up the charade, haha), in addition to seeing the walk-in and other nooks of the quiet factory, the chef du jour was gracious enough to chat with our group and pointed to the flat screen on the kitchen’s wall which featured Per Se’s kitchen, live! Zion was also able to convince a handful of kitchen staff to sign my copy of the night’s menu and noted the individuals to look out for over the next five years. The highlight of my evening was when I was allowed to accompany Zion to another area of the restaurant where he put all the menus as our evening’s memento into a French Laundry bag, an additional French Laundry clothespin as a keepsake for my culinary friend and, perhaps given to VIPs, some bags of French Laundry chocolate tablets (quality chocolate with crisp praline scattered throughout, also embossed with the clothespin symbol) as a parting gift. He then proceeded to escort me back up the stairs to join my table (while carrying my bag of treats. Imagine the look of everyone’s faces when I re-joined them) before the neighboring table (perhaps noticing that we had the pleasure of a tour and wanting the same) departed for the kitchen. It was quite clear that our party was most likely the youngest party present that evening; however we never felt out of place. We were treated respectfully and as first time VIPs, having all our questions and concerns answered or addressed.